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Wooden strip sound-absorbing board installation
Acoustic Panel

Wooden strip sound-absorbing board installation

When installing wooden sound-absorbing panels, it is necessary to take into account the acoustic effect, decorative aesthetics and structural safety. Different scenarios (such as home, cinema, hospital, etc.) have different emphases.

    Material and base preparation stage

    1. Board selection and pretreatment
    Material adaptation scenarios:
    Home/conference room: wood (pine, walnut) or bamboo sound-absorbing panels can be selected to balance aesthetics and sound absorption;
    Cinema/recording studio: high-density fiberboard (MDF) or perforated wood panels are preferred to enhance low-frequency sound absorption;
    Hospital/public space: solid wood composite panels or metal-coated wood panels with antibacterial treatment should be selected to facilitate cleaning and disinfection.
    Moisture-proof and fire-proof treatment:
    Wet environment (such as basement, bathroom): the board needs to be painted with 2-3 coats of moisture-proof paint in advance, and the keel should be made of light steel;
    Public area: the board needs to pass B1 fireproof certification, and the keel and the back of the board should be painted with fire-proof paint before installation.
    Dimension inspection: Check the specifications of the 600×21mm board after arrival, check whether there is warping, cracking or corner damage, and raise the bottom to prevent moisture when stacking to avoid direct sunlight.
    2. Core requirements for base treatment
    Flatness: Measure with a 2m ruler, the wall surface error is ≤2mm, putty is used to level and polish the uneven parts, the moisture content of the base is ≤8% (the wooden base needs to be ≤12%), to avoid deformation of the board in the later stage.
    Pre-embedded water and electricity: Before installation, confirm that the water and electricity pipelines and socket positions on the wall/ceiling have been reserved to avoid damage to the lines during installation (the pipeline direction can be marked on the base).

    Key details of keel installation

    1. Keel material and spacing
    Keel selection:
    Wooden keel: suitable for small-area walls, need to be dried (moisture content ≤10%) to avoid deformation due to moisture;
    Light steel keel: suitable for large-area or ceiling installation, strong load-bearing, not easy to deform, and preferred in hospital scenes.
    Spacing standard: Set the keel spacing according to the board width of 600mm, and the horizontal and vertical keels form a 600×600mm grid to ensure that the edge of each board is fixed on the keel.
    2. Leveling and fixing of keels
    Use a spirit level to calibrate the horizontality of the keel, with an error of ≤1mm/m. Use wooden wedges or gaskets to level the keel and the base to avoid height differences after the board is installed.
    When fixing the keel, the spacing between expansion screws is ≤500mm. The wooden keel and the wall are fixed with self-tapping screws. The screws need to sink 1-2mm into the keel surface to prevent scratching the board.

    Key points for laying and fixing boards

    1. Laying order and joint treatment
    Starting position: Start paving from the corner or inner corner. Use a spirit level to calibrate the verticality of the first board as a reference (wooden wedges can be used for temporary fixing and adjustment).
    Joint method:
    Close-joint splicing: Leave a 1-2mm gap between the boards and fill it with glass glue or special wood glue of the same color. Antibacterial sealant is required in hospital scenes to prevent dust accumulation;
    Staggered paving: The joints of adjacent boards are staggered by at least 300mm (half the width of a board) to avoid the influence of through seams on strength. It is recommended to lay horizontally on long walls to reduce joints.
    2. Fixing method and screw spacing
    Screw fixing: Use 25-30mm self-tapping screws to fix the board on the keel. The screw spacing is ≤300mm, 15-20mm from the edge of the board (to avoid edge collapse). The screw head needs to sink 0.5mm into the board surface, and then polish it after repairing with putty of the same color.
    Nail-free glue auxiliary: Lightweight wooden strip sound-absorbing panels can be coated with nail-free glue (dot distribution) on the back of the board. After being attached to the keel, they are temporarily fixed with a clamp for 24 hours to enhance stability (suitable for highly decorative and non-load-bearing scenes).

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